This is a 4-part summary of the past two or so weeks of my time abroad. Enjoy!
Ruminations:
I'm looking forward to this question when I come home from study abroad: "How was it?". You try to sum up one week of your life, let alone four months.
[From March]: I was sitting on a bench at the Bois de Boulogne when three dogs walked by me with their owner trailing behind. There were some ducks on the edge of the land, near the water. One of the dogs lunged at the ducks, who jumped away in fear - straight into the water. The owner looks at me and says “Ils ne sortent jamais” (they don't ever get out) and laughs.
We actually have a surprising amount of homework here. It's like a normal semester in Champaign, except all of the classes are in French. The difficulty of our classes ranges wildly. In my Tourism and Gastronomy class, I have almost literally no homework each week. In my African Literature class, I have a 3-4 page paper, a group presentation, and a 1-page summary all due in French in the next two weeks. It's unfortunate, because all of the work prevents us from fully profiting from being in the beautiful city of Paris. But we've been kind of alternating between working incredibly hard and throwing caution to the wind - saying screw it, we're going to explore if we want to. C'est la vie.
Part 1: Weekend in Rennes
Thursday March 19th
I left Paris with five other friends from my program to visit the city of Rennes, located in the French region called "Bretagne" (Brittany in English).
I took an early afternoon train into Rennes along with John and Sarah, while the other three people arrived late Thursday night. The three of us spent Thursday afternoon drinking a beer and trying some sausage on Rue de la Soif, the "Street of Thirst". The Bretagne region is well-known for ciders and
galettes, which are essentially savory dinner crepes stuffed with anything from a fried egg to ham to tomatoes to smoked salmon. After buying some great hamburgers from a knock-off American burger joint, we went back out to Rue de la Soif for a couple hours, drinking and waiting for our three other friends to arrive in Rennes. And so they did. And we of course went right back out to the bars!
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Our beautiful Guinness baby |
Friday March 20th
Rennes itself is an interesting city, but part of what makes it a great location for the weekend is that it is an hour away from two beautiful locations - the town of
Saint-Malo and the former monastery/village
Mont Saint Michel. On Friday we spent the day in
Saint-Malo, which definitely has some history in which pirates were heavily involved. That's about all I can tell you. There are large stone walls that encircle the town. We actually were able to walk across the entire length of the town's ramparts as we alternated between slaying enemy pirates and complaining about how we were freezing our asses off.
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"Privateers" |
We picked this particular weekend to visit Rennes when we were talking about travel in mid-February. It was a completely random choice of weekend. Turns out it was actually one of the most intense tides in the century on the west coast of France. Bear in mind that I knew literally none of this. So we're walking on the ramparts, admiring the beach and trying to stay warm, when two reporters from Reuters come up to me and ask me in English if I would mind being interviewed. I blindly accepted like an idiot, before I realized what they wanted to ask me. The reporter asked me a couple questions about myself and what I was doing in Rennes, to which I answered, "I'm just here for the weekend with some friends from Paris to explore and visit some interesting sites". To which she responded, "In terms of the tides, what are you looking forward to seeing?" There's a video that exists somewhere that I'll have to find, but basically I looked at her and said, "I actually had no idea that there was a big tide event here this weekend, but I'm looking forward to seeing whatever it is!"
That night we made a delicious dinner that took a stupendous effort and amount of time. We then stayed in our Airbnb for the rest of the night and played a drinking game that involved singing and annoyed absolutely nobody.
Saturday March 21st
We woke up early again on Saturday and took a bus to an ancient monastery, prison, fortress, town, and now tourist interaction. Mont Saint Michel was built around the 8th or 9th century. There is a single long bridge that snakes from the land to the monastery, which is out on the water. When the high tide sweeps, the bridge is impassible and the monastery becomes an island. That seems to be the French thought that it would be the perfect place to fend off those pesky English during the Hundred Years' War. And later in history, it was also the perfect place to keep political prisoners.
We descended off the bus and walked the 30-minute walk along the bridge to the monastery. On the way, we met up with a charming student from Scotland named Emma, who was studying in France for the semester. Emma ended up hanging out with us for the most of the day as we explored (and ate) at Mont Saint Michel.
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Emma on my right |
The monastery is open to the public for the large part, and we spent a couple hours walking around it and exploring. It was our third castle/fortress experience in two weeks and we were loving it. There was a lot of sword-fighting, a lot of cool panoramic pictures from the top of towers, and a lot of wind. The monastery itself was relatively uncrowded, but the streets of the town were packed with tourists in town for the tide.
We had to catch a bus back to Rennes at 6pm, so we missed the tide sweeping onto the bridge and the surrounding area - turning the Mont into an island. However we were able to see the area at peak low tide around 2pm, which was quite jarring. People could walk out incredibly far on the mud and "beach" while the tide waters were receding.
Part 2: The Week
Not too much to say here, it was a pretty busy week in terms of homework. I checked out a cool Parisian covered street/shop area called
Passage Joffroy on Tuesday. It's quaint and the site of many many Instagram pictures. The area is located on the border of the 9th and 18th arrondissements, in the Montmartre area. While there I stumbled upon a New York-style pizza joint and a kosher Israeli falafel shop. All in all Tuesday was a respectable day of exploring.
On Wednesday I was lucky enough to see my friend Alana and meet her family while they were in town in Paris. I went with Alana and her family to the Museum of Jewish Art and History in Paris, then we met up with Jocelyn and her boyfriend Matt (also visiting Paris) for a great meal at a deli in the Marais. Her parents took us all out to Micky's Deli, and I ordered a pastrami and beef burger. Wow. It was especially refreshing to eat something so caloric after having fresh and modest Parisian portions for the past month and a half. Wednesday night we checked out a bar just a couple blocks from our school called
Le Pantalon. Beer was relatively cheap, it was dive-y, and it didn't smell too good. To sum up - everything I would want in a bar.
On Thursday we had our weekly
Romantisme class - this time at a historically significant church in Paris called
Sainte Clotide. This is usually not worth noticing except for a quick little anecdote. We were outside the church and our teacher was lecturing about the facade and history of the neo-gothique architecture of the church. Suddenly (and this is at 10am mind you) some homeless man drinking a 40 of Guinness walks up and starts accusing our teacher of misrepresenting the history of the church and not allowing the students to talk. He's clearly drunk and rambling, and our teacher brushes him off hardcore - first telling him repeatedly that this is a private group, and then sarcastically saying in French, "
Merci pour votre collaboration, Monsieur". Some of us grabbed lunch after class. A few hours later I was on a train heading towards Amsterdam.
Part 3: Amsterdam
Thursday March 26th
I arrived in Amsterdam around 9pm at their Centraal Station. For my weekend in Amsterdam, I was meeting up with my old pal, my buddy: Sarah. The rest of the Illinois Program in Paris spent this weekend in the Loire Valley, checking out castles and generally wreaking mischief. That made it an initially difficult decision to choose between Amsterdam and the Loire. In the end though I had an excellent time in Amsterdam, which was a city unlike any other that I had previously visited. Sarah is studying in London for the semester, and she took a plane into Amsterdam. We met up at the station and headed straight to our hostel, which was one of those hostels you'd have no problem staying in OR partying in. We had a drink at a bar nearby and then more or less called it a night, the better to prepare for the next couple days.
Friday March 27th
Friday was a day of walking and exploration. Judging by my "Google Fit" app on my phone, I walked more this weekend in Amsterdam than in any other weekend on the trip so far. But before I get to that, I need to explain our housing situation from Friday to Sunday. In the days leading up to the trip, Sarah and I were having difficulties securing a place to stay Friday and Saturday nights. Hostels were either completely booked or too expensive. Airbnb's were overpriced for our needs. Couchsurfing requests were denied, probably because two people is a difficult amount to accommodate for a weekend. A couple days before we left, we were able to book a cheap Airbnb just 15-20 minutes outside of the city center by bus. The owner of the Airbnb was particularly interesting and definitely gave three unique travel stories, at minimum.
We spent the vast majority of Friday walking along the bridges, canals, and various shops of Amsterdam. Some of the more particular stores that we found included the "Condomerie", a store dedicated entirely to custom rubber ducks, a coffeeshop/bar in the theme of "The Doors", and numerous sex shops.
By the evening/night we were totally knocked out. I was thinking of going out after a nap at the Airbnb, but as soon as I laid down I knew that I was going nowhere. Fair enough. So we went to sleep at 11pm-ish.
At midnight I hear a pounding on the bedroom door - it's our Airbnb host. I open the door dazed and sleepy, in my gym shorts and dress shirt that I passed out in. She starts immediately talking about how another person was supposed to stay in her apartment through Airbnb that evening. But, he hasn't arrived yet. He just contacted her and explained that he was running late, that he took the bus, and that he doesn't know how to find the apartment from the bus stop. It is worth noting that our host did not speak English particularly well, nor did the man who was supposed to stay in the Airbnb. He was a college student in the east of France, in Strasbourg.
Anyway, our host was in my debt as she put it, so she repaid me in the best, most equivalent way possible. She made coffee for me and Sarah.
Satuday March 28th
The primary goal of our Saturday was to see the Anne Frank House and the museum that accompanies it. In order to have that opportunity, we woke up bright and early and made it to the line outside the Anne Frank House at around 8:30am. According to the workers at the museum and some nice Californians that we met in the line, the wait to enter can go up to three hours.
We were inside the House just over an hour after arriving. I'd been there before when I was 9 years old, but I barely remembered anything from that trip - except the bookcase door that led to the Secret Annexe. The House was made into a museum by Otto Frank, Anne's father. He was the sole survivor out of the eight people hiding in the house. The visit was striking, particularly the idea that the Amsterdam I was walking in had been occupied by the Nazis within my grandparent's lifetime.
After leaving the museum we went to a delicious brunch. I had Dutch pancakes. Mmmm. We spent some time walking. After we reached the "Amsterdam" sign, I was able to connect with my friend Garrett, also visiting Amsterdam. Garrett was with his roommates from Prague, and we all joined forces to hit up the Heineken factory and tour. The tour was awesome. The history itself was not particularly interesting, but we received several free beers and were able to take some cool pictures and hang out in an interesting location. There was also a demo on how to correctly drink a Heineken to receive all its flavors. In the words of the employee, "Sorry ladies - but drink like a man".
We spent the rest of the day doing more wandering and grabbing a nice Italian dinner (in the Netherlands yeah shut up). At 8pm we went on a great Red Light District tour. The tour guide was an incredibly funny person who kept making sex shop and live sex show jokes. And she was actually quite knowledgeable about the history of the Red Light District and Amsterdam in general. It is a big no-no in Amsterdam to take pictures of the women working. So I did it anyway. Just kidding.
Sunday morning we ended the trip by walking around a little more and taking a canal tour. Full disclosure - I passed out for most of the tour. 11 euros wasted. Nap well spent. I loved Amsterdam - it was a unique city both in terms of its openness towards sex/drugs, and its physical layout. Sunday afternoon I took a train back to the City of Love, Paris itself.
Part 4: The Futureeee
It's Tuesday night as I finish writing this. My grandma is coming into the city very early tomorrow morning, and I'll be picking her up. My family is following her later in the week, when we'll celebrate the Jewish holiday Passover together. Should be a fun and fatiguing weekend! Updates to follow. Thanks for taking the time to read this, I know it was a long one.
PS: Add me on Skype to talk sometime! noah.feingold
Whatsapp and Viber: Noah Feingold
Instagram/Snapchat/Twitter for updates: noahfinny
La Culture:
King Kunta - Kendrick Lamar
Your Fine Petting Duck - Devendra Benhart
The Feast and the Famine - Foo Fighters
Egyptian President Abdel Fatah al-Sissi, who talks to Netanyahu ‘a lot,’ says his country is in danger of collapse - NY Times
Carbon Capture - The New Yorker
It's Easier to Win a World Series Than to Get Social Security Disability - FOX Atlanta
Richard Simmons on Capitol Hill - Youtube
Inspiring video about the importance of physical education for children.
Episode 142: Fake Sex (w/Ben Schwartz!) - If I Were You Show